Choga

Choga of twill-weave wool, green, embroidered with floral arabesques, paisleys, and diamond motifs in silver and gilt kalabattu; sinjaf of plain-weave silk, deep purplish-pink, lining of plain-weave silk, olive green; front opening secured with two pairs of flat, circular buttons embroidered with gilt metal thread and finished with tassels of gilt metal thread

Accession Number : Cos 62
Classification of object : Apparel, Stitched
Type of object : Men’s Garment
Local/Vernacular Name: Choga
Dimensions : Length: 127cms, Sleeve Length: 66cms, Length of Hem: 218cms
Date: 19th century
Provenience: Probably Punjab
Base Fabric: 2/2 twill weave wool green;
Warp: wool, paired, Z-twist;
Weft: wool, paired, Z-twist;
Sinjaf: Plain-weave silk, deep purplish-pink;
Astar: Plain-weave silk, olive-green
Embroidery Elements: Paired kalabattu, silver or silver gilt strip S-wrapped over white and yellow silk cores respectively; gilt badla; both kalabattu and badla couched with a silk thread, creamy yellow, of low twist

Achkan

Achkan of satin-weave silk, pale pink, woven with a continuous floral pattern in gilt metal thread; lined with satin-weave silk, pale; neckline, front and side openings, and hem bordered with a narrow velvet lace, black, decorated with metallic embroidery and edged with a metallic fringe; shaped velvet appliqués, black , similarly embroidery at shoulders, nape, cuffs, and lower corners

Accession Number : Cos 83
Classification of object : Apparel, Stitched
Type of object : Men’s Garment
Local/Vernacular Name: Achkan
Dimensions : Length: 132cms; Sleeve Length: 57cms; Length of Hem: 173cms
Date: Late 19th or early 20th century
Provenience: Base fabric probably woven in Ahmedabad
Base Fabric: 5/1 or 6/1 satin-weaves silk, pale pink, patterned with continuous supplementary weft of metal thread;
Warp: silk, single, Z-twist;
Weft: silk, probably twist-less;
Continuous Supplementary Weft: metal thread, paired; gilt strip Z-wrapped over core of orange silk;
Astar: Satin-weave silk, pale pink;
Embroidery Elements: Velvet l lace, black, embroidered with gilt salma, sitara, dabka, ghizai; salma, and dabka couched over a wadding of cotton yarn; velvet lace edged with kiran of gilt badla; shaped appliqués of velvet black, similarly embroidered and edged; fancy fringe of gilt salma, green glass beads and tassels of gilt badla.
Buttons: Seven die-cut buttons, probably of aluminium, covered with a gilt metallic silk tissue

Sari

Sari of thin, plain-weave silk crepe, pale pink, decorated with silk and metallic embroidery, with jali-work, and with oval cut-outs of pictures of rulers of Jodhpur; edged on all sides with a piping of silk velvet, dark purple.

Accession Number : Txt 11
Classification of object : Apparel, Unstitched
Type of object : Womens s Garment
Local/Vernacular Name: Sari
Dimensions : 542 cms; Width: 111 cms
Date:20th century
Provenience: Rajasthan
Base Fabric: Plain-weave silk crepe, pale pink, mill-made, probably imported; Warp: silk, single;
Warp: silk, single;
Weft: silk, single;
Piping: Narrow strip of silk velvet, dark wine-purple;
Embroidery Elements: Gilt and silver salma, sitara, dabka, kalabattu; floss silk, multiple colours; oval cut-outs of photographs of rulers of Jodhpurs, touched up; jali-work.

Angarkha

Angarkha of plain-weave cotton, cream, cream, printed with a small floral sprig in red, purple, olive green and black, parts of the motif outlined with gold pigment; piping of single cotton cord

Accession Number : Cos 63
Classification of object : Apparel, Stitched
Type of object : Men’s Garment
Local/Vernacular Name: Angarkha
Dimensions : Length: 141cms; Sleeve Length: 36cms; Length of Hem: 581cms
Date: 19th century

Jama / Angarkha

Jama / Angarkha of plain-weave cotton, white, embroidered with a small, repeating floral sprig in silk, purplish-pink; narrow floral borders, similarly embroidered, at neckline, armholes, chest, cuffs, and hem; triangular floral cartouche, similarly embroidered, at nape

Accession Number : Cos 85
Classification of object : Apparel, Stitched
Type of object : Men’s Garment
Local/Vernacular Name: Jama / Angarkha
Dimensions : Length: 141cms; Sleeve Length: 122cms; Length of Hem: 638cms
Date: Late 18th or early 19th century
Provenience: Western India
Base Fabric: Thin, plain-weave cotton, undyed;
Warp: cotton, single, Z-spun;
Weft: cotton, single, Z-spun;
Astar: Upper half of garment lined with a medium weight, plain-weave cotton, undyed;
Embroidery Elements: Silk yarn, single, slight Z-twist, in chainstitch;
Buttons: Wadding of cotton fabric covered with white cotton fabric, undyed; string fasteners stitched from base fabric.